LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



Shelf^S- 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



BAND SAWS 



A TREATISE 



ON THE 



CarekBand Saws 




p'lVING THE REASONS OF SAWS 
CRACKING, AND THE PREVENT- 
^^ IVES ; ALSO, INCLUDING A PAR- 

TIAL LIST OF THE USERS OF 

BAND Mills throughout the 

COUNTRY. 




' NOV IB 1892 
Geo. M. Brown. r 






INDIANAPOEIS : 
BAJ4.BR-RANDOLPH COMPANY. 



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A 



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If./^ijil^ 



COPYRIGHTED, 1892. 



Preface. 



N THKSE pages I have minutely explained the art 
of Filing, Hammering, Brazing, and the manage- 
ment of large Band Saws ; giving such points as 
will enable those following the instructions to produce 
the most satisfactory results. For the past ten years, 
I have made the Band Saw my constant study, in 
regard to their care and management, and to get from 
them the best possible results. Have been engaged 
in the most extensive and fastest mills throughout 
the country, and by applying myself to different 
methods and most all of the varieties of timber 
grown in the States, I have acquired a knowledge 
that could not be gained in a dozen mills. The 
larger the field the more information there is to be 
gained. 

I do not claim to have learned all there is to be 
learned on this subject, but probably as much as can 



well be of value at the present, and if desirable can 
furnish references to corroborate my statements. 
The success of those who have followed my instruc- 
tions, and the frequent applicants I have, who are 
desirous of learning the business, have encouraged 
me to formulate the following instructions ; concise, 
yet so clear that one with only a slight knowledge of 
the work can follow intelligently. 

The Author. 



A xre^atise: 



CARE OK BAND SAWS 



Before entering upon these instructions let us ex- 
amine the work before us and resolve to become 
master of the art; that it is an art, and of some magni- 
tude, these pages will show, though not so difficult to 
surmount as is generally supposed, and I assure you 
if my instructions are closely followed, success will be 
the result. 

Realizing that the success of mills is largely de- 
pendent upon good running saws, I will point out in 
detail that which constitutes such a saw. 

We are well aware* that a delay of a few minutes 
in some mills incurs a loss of several dollars, and that 
the saw does not have to stop to compute a loss, but 
frequently occurs through favoring worn out saws 
and saws that will not stand up to their work. 



10 A TREATISE ON THE 

IMPI^KMKNTS NECESSARY FOR THE FILE ROOM. 

For hammers you will require one round-faced, 
weight three to three and one-half pounds. 

One combined long and cross-faced, same weight. 

One leveling or blocking hammer, weight two to 
two and one-half pounds, with a round and long face, 
and should be ground moderately sharp. 

One crown-edge or tension level, to be crowned one- 
sixteenth of an inch in twelve inches. 

One straight-edge. 

This completes the tools for hammering. You should 
also be equipped with a saw-stretcher, hammering block, 
lap-grinder or scarfer, saw sharpeners, swages, etc. 

To familiarize yourself with anvil work and tension 
of the band saw blade, take a piece of old saw five or 
six feet in length, lay it on the leveling table (which 
can be of hard wood or cast iron), apply the straight- 




FlGURE I— I,OCATING AND SHOWING THE " lyOOSE.' 



11 



CARK OF BAND SAWS. 

edge and with the leveling hammer remove all lumps, 
beginning at the end and hammering down the largest 
lumps, then the smaller ones. Having leveled this side, 




Figure 2— I/OCating and Showing the "Fast," 

turn it over and treat the other side in the same manner. 

Our next lesson will treat on giving the blade the 
proper tension. In order to locate the conditions of the 
blade (which are termed "fast," "stiff" and "loose"), 
it must be slightly curved, as shown in Figure i. 

Apply the straight-edge square across the blade; 
parts showing convex to the straight-edge are " fast" 




Figure 3— I^ocating and Showing the "Stiff." 



12 A TREATISE ON THE 

(see Figure 2), by turning the blade it will show the 
same on the other side. When the central parts 
neither drop, nor show convex, but lay close to the 
straight-edge, it is stiff (see Figure 3). When the 
central parts drop from the straight-edge, as shown 
in Figure i, they are "loose," which is the proper 
tension for the blade, providing it is not so " loose " 
as to cause the blade to " dish " from side to side 
when lying straight on the leveling table. 

We will now locate the extent of the ** fast," and 
take it out by hammering through the central parts 
of the blade with the round-faced hammer (see 4), on 



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Figure 4— To Take Out the "Fast" and "Stiff." 

both sides of the blade, leaving a tire of i >^ inches on 
each edge (for a 6-inch blade — for an increased width 
of 2 inches, allow % of an inch to the tire) and 
which renders the central parts "loose," and will 
show to the straight-edge as Figure i. 

The "stiff" parts will require the same treatment as 
that of the " fast," with the exception of lighter blows. 




CARE OF BAND SAWS. 13 

Now that the ** fast " and " stiffs " have been taken 
out, the hammering has produced lumps, which must 
be leveled again, as previously instructed. 

In our next lesson we will render the blade stiff by 
hammering along its edges, with the round-faced 
hammer, on each side. (See Figure 5.) 



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Figure 5— To Take Out the " I,oose." 

After the blade has been thus treated, by applying 
the straight-edge we find the " loose " to have disap- 
peared, and will show to the straight-edge as Figure 
3, which is ''stiff." By thus hammering along the 
edges we have changed the tension from "loose " to 
" stiff," and by continuing to hammer the edges we 
render the blade " fast." (See Figure 2.) 

When you become familiar with the " fast," it will 
not be necessary for you to apply the straight-edge to 
locate it, but shall be able to feel and see it work when 
raising the saw up and down. 

In our last lesson we rendered the blade " fast," 
and " stiff," by hammering the edges. We will now 



14 A TRKATISK ON THE 

proceed to open up the central parts again, and give 
it the proper tension by using the round-face ham- 
mer (as shown in Figure 4), on each side, as we have 
previously done. Having hammered the central 
parts until they drop from the straight-edge (see Fig- 
ure i), level the blade again. Parts that "dish" 
from side to side, and can not be leveled (while the 
blade is lying straight on the leveling table), are too 
'* loose," and the edges will have to be hammered to 
take it out. (See Figure 5.) 

In this lesson we will straighten the back of the 
saw, and bring it in line with the straight-edge by 
using the round-face hammer along the hollow edge on 
both sides, extending the blows into the central parts, 
in order to maintain the tension. (See Figure 6.) 

If you have not a piece that is curved from the 
straight-edge (as Figure 6), take a piece 5 or 6 feet in 
length, and with the round-face hammer give it a few 

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Figure 6— To Straighten the Back. 



CARK OF BAND SAWS. 15 

blows within ^ inch of the tooth edge at equal dis- 
tances apart on both sides, and by applying the long 
straight-edge to the back, it will show slightly hollow, 
as in Figure 6. 

The saw is as liable to become stretched on the 
back as on the tooth-edge (Figure 6 shows it to be 
stretched on the latter edge), consequently the back 
shows hollow to the straight-edge. 

Should the back be stretched, the tooth-edge would 
show hollow to the straight-edge. In this case the 
hammering would necessarily be done on the tooth- 
edge, extending the blows into the central parts as 
directed. 

Thus far, the work can be accomplished much 
easier with the stretcher. However, it is advisable 
for the beginner to first acquire a knowledge of the 




Figure 7 —To Take Out The Twist. 

adjustments of tension with the hammer, from the 
fact that we can not depend entirely on the stretcher. 
(Will explain later on the manner of using this ma- 



16 A TREATISE ON THE 

chine). We will now proceed with the ''twists Sup- 
posing that we have no twist to work upon we will 
produce one by taking a piece of saw from two to 
three feet in length and hammer diagonally across it 
with the long-faced hammer on the anvil, as shown in 
Figure 7. Turn the piece over and give it the same 
treatment, applying the blows in an opposite diagonal 
direction across the blade. By this treatment we find 
the piece to rest on opposite edges or corners. When 
lying straight on the leveling table, and by applying 
the straight-edge diagonally across the blade we 
find it shows a lump or ridge at right angles to the 
straight-edge, and by reversing the straight-edge 
to the opposite diagonal direction it will show 
hollow. To produce the twist we have hammered 
both sides of the blade in opposite diagonal directions 
with the long-faced hammer. 

TO TAKE OUT THE TWIST, 

Hammer in just the opposite direction to which we 
hammered to produce the twist, using care not to 
hammer so much as to produce an opposite twist. 
After the twist has been removed, level down the 
lumps and put in the twist again, continuing the 
operation until you have become thoroughly familiar 
with it. 



CARE OK BAND SAWS. 17 

I would suggest that you practice the rudimentary 
lessons, and gain a thorough knowledge of the ad- 
justment of tension before you undertake to put a 
saw in working order, as you could not expect success 
without practical knowledge. 

THE TENSION OF THE BAND SAW 

Should be so adjusted that when the saw is strained 
on the mill, it will bear equally and firmly upon 
the wheels — the principal strain being near, but 
not too near, the edges of the saw. 

When the saw is in proper tension, the central 
portions are uniformly opened or expanded through- 
out its entire length. 

TO DETERMINE THE AMOUNT OF TENSION 

The blade will require for heavy feed, bend it to 
the radius of the saw wheels, and if sufiiciently 
open, the central parts will slightly drop from the 
tension level (or crown edge), so that when the saw 
is bent, and the crown edge placed square across 
it, the central parts will drop, and the light will 
pass under the central portions evenly its entire 
length. In testing for the tension, it is better to 
use the crown edge, as the "stiff" and ''fast" 



18 A TREATISE ON THE 

places are more accurately detected, bearing in 
mind that the stiff and fast parts do not drop from 
the crown edge. 

WHEN TESTING FOR UNEVEN TENSION, 

It will not be necessary to have the saw bent to the 
radius of the saw wheels, as this is only to deter- 
mine the amount of tension, or opening, the saw 
will require when strained on the mill. 

While the saw is being tested for uneven tension 
it should be be slightly curved. Appl}^ the crown 
edge straight across the saw, examine it closely, and 
mark all places that do not drop away. Those places 
being marked, should now be expanded or opened in 
a degree with the parts that have the proper ten- 
sion. This can be done with the round-faced ham- 
mer, by hammering both sides of the saw that do 
not drop away, until the proper tension is effected, 
but can more accurately and easily be accomplished 
with the stretcher, as the latter does not dish the 
saw from side to side as the hammer will, providing 
both rollers are shaped exactly the same, and that 
part of the saw that passes between the rollers kept 
on a straight line. But should one roller be a trifle 
sharper than the other, or that part of the saw be 



care: of band saws. 19 

bent which passes between the rollers, the saw will 
be apt to '' dish," from either cause, and will have to 
be leveled with the round-faced hammer, which will 
consume considerable time. When opening the saw 
for the tension, roll or hammer to within the distance 
specified of its edges on page j^ keeping propor- 
tionately farther from the edges as the width may 
suggest. The saw having been rolled, or hammered, 
test with the crown edge for the tension. The parts 
that do not drop away will require more opening, as 
the crown edge will show when applied. 

IvKVElylNG AND STRAIGHTENING THE BACK, 

Comes next. But first I will describe my way of 
constructing a hammering bench. 

Some prefer a cast iron slab for leveling on ; I get 
along just as nicely with a hard-wood bench, say 
from 4 to 6 inches thick by 20 inches wide. For saws 
from 48 to 52 feet in length, the bench should be 
14 to 16 feet (the length of the bench may vary to 
suit the saw), with 5 feet extension drop-leaves, 
hinged on both ends, to hold up the ends of the saw 
while working on the inside. 

Arrange four light-wood rollers, 3 inches in diam- 
eter by 2 feet in length, above the bench, to carry the 



20 A TREATISE ON THE 

top part of the saw. The rollers should be so 
arranged that they may be taken out in order to place 
the saw above them. 

Place the stretcher at the end of the bench, with the 
lower roller }^ inch higher than the top of the bench. 
The drop-leaf should be hinged on outside of the 
stretcher ; then notch in the center of the bench for the 
anvil, leaving the latter flush with the outside and top. 

Use a straight-edge the length of the bench, to 
straighten the back of the saw by, which can be made 
from a piece of saw, viz.: Cut the teeth off and 
slightly dish the side that is placed to the wood. If 
it be 1 6 feet long, give it tV curve from end to end, or 
in other words, tV of an inch hollow. 

This can be done by first straightening it with the 
hammer on the anvil, testing with the longest 
straight-edge you have, to see that it is perfectly 
straight ; then place it back on the bench and mark 
along the straight side, leaving a fine line. Now 
draw it over the anvil, and a few light blows at equal 
distances apart — along the edge from which the teeth 
were cut — will give it the desired curve. Try it now 
on the fine line, placing the ends on the mark. If 
the center lays off from the line sufficiently (which 
should be tV), mark along it again, and reverse 



care; ok band saws. 21 

ends to see if correct. Screw it firmly to the bench 
evenly with the back edge of the anvil. Screw holes 
should be made before it is straightened. 

This is the most convenient bench that I have yet 
seen, as it requires no help to put the saw up and 
down on the bench, and the straight-edge being long, 
one can more readily detect a long curve in the saw. 

TO STRAIGHTEN THE BACK OF THE SAW, 

Place the back against the straight-edge with the 
teeth towards you. (The back of the saw should 
be crowned A of an inch in 16 feet, to compensate the 
stretching of the tooth side when being heavily fed, 
otherwise the cutting edge will become slack.) Mark 
the saw at each end and in the center of the long 
straight-edge. If the saw lays off too much in center 
of straight edge, it will require stretching in the back 
but should it lay away on the ends, it will require 
stretching on the tooth side. 

The result to be obtained is to have the back of the 
saw fit the long straight-edge its entire length. 

Draw the saw half the length of straight-edge and 
test again. Continue this until you have been around 
the saw, marking the edge that will require stretch- 
ing, thereby drawing it in line with the straight-edge 
as you proceed with the leveling. 



22 A TREATISE ON THE 

When the edges require stretching, to straighten 
the back, level on the anvil. 

Level on the wood or leveling table the parts that 
are sufficiently opened and where the edges require 
no stretching. But, when the edges have to be 
stretched in order to bring the back in line with the 
straight-edge, the high places (or lumps) in the 
central parts of the saw may be leveled on the anvil, 
thereby maintaining the tension. At the same time, 
hammer along the edges that require stretching, 
bearing always in mind that if the tooth edge be too 
crowning, the back will require stretching, but should 
the back be too crowning, the tooth edge will have to 
be stretched. 

Always finish leveling the saw on the log side, with 
a trial for the tension from time to time during the 
process of leveling. 

Should any part not drop away, draw it over the 
anvil and level it. This in many cases will open it 
sufficiently. 

Parts of the saw that are too open will dish through 
from side to side or lay wavy on the bench. These 
parts may be hammered lightly and equally on both 
edges. The loose may be taken out by hammering 



CARE OF BAND SAWS. 23 

along the hollow edge, thereby bringing the saw in 
line with the straight-edge. 

Different parts of the blade require different treat- 
ment, the result to be obtained being perfect uni- 
formity of tension the entire length of the saw. 

GRINDING, OR CONSTANT USE OF THE EMERY 
WHEElv 

Will gradually stretch the tooth edge, causing a curve 
the entire length of th'e saw, which may be drawn in 
line with the straight-edge by using the round-face 
hammer along the back edge (as previously instructed), 
extending the blows into the central parts in order to 
maintain the tension, completing the work by leveling 
on the log side on the anvil or leveling table, as the 
work may suggest. This can be done much quicker 
and better with the stretcher, thus : Roll lightly 
around the extreme or immediate edges (will explain 
later why the extreme edges are rolled), then roll 
through the central parts until the proper tension 
is effected, leaving the required tire on each edge as 
previously instructed. 

WHEN A SAW IS OVER FED 

It is liable to dodge in or out of the timber, which 
generally results in the stretching of the edges, causing 



24 A TREATISE ON THE 

the saw to change its position on the wheels, also 
affecting the breast. When stretched on the front, 
the saw will run forward on the wheels ; if the back 
is stretched it will run back on the wheels. Such a 
saw will show crowning, or ruffles, on the stretched 
edge, and will require a severe stretching of the hol- 
low edge and central parts to restore the tension and 
to bring it in line with the straight-edge. This saw 
requires the same treatment as-that which is stretched 
by the emery wheel, with the exception that the hol- 
low edge and central parts require a more severe 
stretching. 

NEW SAWS, 

When unpacked, will generally be found bent where 
the shortest bends were made in packing. When 
saws are received from the manufacturer, place them 
on the bench and- look them over — the bent places 
generally stiffen the blade more or less at the points 
bent, and may require some opening, as well as level- 
ing. To straighten and level such a saw, bend with 
the hands in the opposite direction from which it is 
bent. The saw can very nearly be straightened by 
this method of bending it. Test with the crown 
edge to see if sufficiently opened in the central parts. 
Should it not drop sufficiently finish leveling the cen- 



CARE OF BAND SA.WS. 25 

tral parts on the anvil. Should it show the required 
tension, level on the wood, or leveling table. Kxam- 
ine the back before leveling to see if straight. 

It will be necessary to keep a close observation on 
new saws, and restore the tension which it will lose 
for a few runs. 

Saws are frequently bent from rough handling 
while being changed from file-room to mill, which 
renders the blade stiff at the points bent. 

THE CAUSE OF SAWS BREAKING AND THE 
PREVENTIVE. 

Owing to the bending and straightening of the 
band saw, and the strain that is required to be near 
the edges, renders it more susceptible of breaking 
than any other saw, but with proper precaution this 
trouble can be obviated. Saws may break from 
various causes, of which I will name the most com- 
mon, viz.: 

Too much strain on the immediate edges. 

Feeding beyond the endurance of tension. 

Unequal tension. 

Round gullets, or sharp angles, causing the bend- 
ing and straightening to take place at the weakest 
and narrowest point in the blade. 



26 A treatise; on the 

Case-hardening by use of the emery wheel. 

Inferior steel used in the manufacture. 

The last-named cause, we sometimes have good 
reason for complaint; still there are filers who take 
undue advantage of this. 

From my own observations and constant experience 
of the last ten years, I believe the first-named cause 
to be the most destructive. 

To ascertain whether the saw has too much strain 
on the immediate edges, bend it to the radius of the 
saw wheels, apply the end of the straight-edge to the 
edges of the saw ; if it drops away near the edges, it 
indicates too much strain on them. If, on the con- 
trary, should the straight-edge rock, or show the 
least " fast," or convex, one-half inch from either 
side, it indicates the saw to be long on the extreme 
edges. 

To remove the strain from the edges with the 
stretcher, set the roller guide so as to stretch the 
extreme edges, then roll and open up the central 
parts for the required tension. 

STRETCHING THE IMMEDIATE EDGES 

Of the saw adds greatly to the life of it, by the fol- 
lowing advantages, namely : 



CARK of band saws. 27 

The saw is less liable to accidents through fast 
feeding. 

Will hold the tension longer. 

Removes all liability of the blade cracking. 

Prevents disintegration of the extreme edges, and 
when the saw is strained on the mill, the extreme 
edges will not hug the wheels so closely, thereby 
relieving the edges of the crystallizing effect. 

Saws that have been reduced in width one-half to 
three-fourths of an inch frequently have too much 
of a strain on the tooth edge. Such saws should be 
examined and relieved as instructed. 

THK SHAPE OF THE TEETH 
Are of considerable importance. They should be 
shaped with gullets ground parallel with the back, to 
assure a more distributed bending of the blade than 
will be obtained with the round gullet. Figure 8, I 
find to be the most desirable shape, and will work 
satisfactorily in all kinds of wood. The gullets have 
ample dust room and are ground with a long draw 
parallel with the back. The teeth will be found 
sufficiently strong if kept in proper joint. 

The gullets of Figure 9 have less dust room, and are 
easily choked on thick bark and pitchy logs, while the 
bending is not so well distributed as in Figure 8. 



28 



A TREATISE ON THE 



The grinding-machine, swage and filing-clamp 
should be set in connection with one another. 




Figure 8. 




Figure 9. 

Have the stretching wheels so arranged that the 
saw may be strained up while swaging and jointing. 

When grinding, slack the saw so it will rest on the 
brackets, to allow the grinding machine to push both 
sides of the saw. This is a much better way to 
arrange your machines than to have them scattered 
over the file-room. It saves the trouble of changing 
the saw from place to place while being worked upon. 



CARE OF BAND SAWS. 29 

But where two or more band mills are run, and only 
one sharpening machine used, it will be necessary to 
have the sharpener independent of other machines. 

BEFORE SWAGING, 

See that the teeth are jointed parallel with the back ; 
otherwise, when jointing, the swage on the long or 
projecting teeth will be cut away. After swaging, 
joint parallel with the back until every tooth touches, 
as a well-jointed saw prevents corners from breaking, 
while each tooth does its allotted part. 

The saw having been swaged and jointed, the 
spread should be evened with the side file, as the 
timber requires — soft wood requiring more spread 
than hard wood. 

The side file should set at an angle of 75 degrees, 
thereby leaving the extreme point the widest. 

Use only sufiQcient spread to clear the blade well in 
the timber. There should be no friction, but a close 
kerf supports the saw, while the blade will keep clean 
and bright. 

The swaging should be done in a manner so as to 
have the grinding equally divided on front and back 
of the tooth. If too much grinding is done on the 
back the emery wheel will constantly wear to a sharp 
edge, resulting in a poorly-shaped tooth and gullet. 



30 A TREATISE ON THE 

THE SAW HAVING BKKN SWAGKD, JOINTED 
• AND SIDE-FILED, 

Is now in condition to be sharpened. A newly- 
swaged saw generally requires to pass around the 
machine two or more times, in order that all of the 
teeth may be faced up in front, and to within one- 
sixteenth of an inch of the point on the back, com- 
pleting the sharpening with one stroke of the file on 
the back of each tooth. 

The file should never be used on the front of the 
teeth, as it would change the pitch, rendering the 
teeth more difiicult to face up with the emery wheel. 
There is but little filing to do if the saw is properly 
ground. 

As the lever or eccentric swages are now mostlj^ 
used, it may be well to mention the importance of 
having these machines properly adjusted. 

In these swages the tooth must rest firmly on the 
anvil ; the die that does the spreading should not 
take so deep a hold as to cause the point of the tooth 
to split or break. 

BRAZING. 

To be successful in brazing there are a few points 
that should be observed. Before scarfing the ends 



CARE OF BAND SAWS. 31 

see that they are straight and level ; bevel them to a 
width of three-fourths inch, scarfing the ends in a 
manner as to have the outside lap up, thus preserving 
the braze from abrasion on the log-side. 

Use the best silver solder, that which is tough, or 
thi7i and flexible being superior to the thick, brittle 
variety. 

Clean a strip of solder one-eighth inch wider than 
the lap with diluted muriatic acid (it is advisable to 
dilute the acid with zinc), place the solder between 
the lap so it will project a trifle on each side and ends. 
Before heating the irons see that they fit closely 
together. It is essential that the brazing irons be of 
an even and almost white heat ; a cherry red is com- 
mended by some, but I fail to find this intense 
enough, as it will not melt the solder sufficiently. In 
cold weather the brazing clamps should be warmed, 
otherwise they will detract the heat too rapidly from 
the brazing irons. 

The irons can more evenly be heated with charcoal. 
If stone coal is used the sulphur should be burned 
out before the irons are heated. When the hot irons 
are applied, screw up firmly until the lap begins to 
turn red, then slacken, as too much pressure will 
force the solder out, resulting in a poor braze. Leave 



32 A TREATISE ON THE 

the irons in this position until cool, dress the lap to 
an even thickness with the rest of the blade, being 
careful not to get it too thin, as too much bending 
will occur at the thin place, causing the saw to 
break. 

When opening up the braze, or giving it the 
tension, it should be left a trifle stiffer than the rest 
of the saw, as the temper has been drawn out by the 
hot irons, thereby rendering the braze more easily 
bent. To give the braze the proper tension, it re- 
quires the same treatment as the other part of the 
saw, and can be done with the stretcher, or round- 
faced hammer. The braze having been opened, test 
as I have directed, to see that the strain is not on the 
immediate edges. 

SPEED OF THE SAW. 

Opinions vary regarding the proper speed of the 
band saw. From my experience I find the speed of 
the saw must vary from six to nine thousand feet per 
minute, according to the hardness, or resistance of the 
wood. When sawing hard wood, such as ash, oak, 
fat, yellow pine, or any such wood that has much 
resistance, six thousand feet will be found more desira- 
ble than a faster speed, as better lumber will be made 
and a faster feed carried. 



CARE OF BAND SAWS. 33 

The size of the logs have also considerable to do 
with the speed of the saw, large cuts having more 
resistance, thereby 'rendering the tooth-edge slack. 
For the large timber of the South and Pacific coast, 
I would recommend eight thousand feet per minute. 
When sawing small, soft logs, saws may be run a 
thousand feet faster with better results than will be 
obtained at eight thousand. If the speed of the saw, 
is too high, it can not do good work, besides ren- 
dering it liable to many accidents. I would not be 
understood as deprecating a higher speed, but the 
remarks I have made apply to the band saw of the 
present, and I am confident is about the correct speed. 

ADJUSTING THK GUIDES AND TRAINING THE 
SAW ON THE WHEELS. 

To properly do this is an acquirement of no little 
importance. As a matter of fact, very few sawyers 
understand the nature of the saw well enough to be 
able to guide and handle it while in the act of making 
lumber. To do this and get the best possible results, 
is a fine accomplishment, as is also cutting the log into 
lumber as it should be manufactured, and is only ac- 
complished by a well drilled brain. The sawyer ought 
to know as much about his saw as the filer, so as to be 



34 A TREATISE ON THE 

in perfect sympathy with it. When he has mastered 
these points, he has then greater things to become 
familiar with in order to make his services of the 
greatest value to his employer. To wisely size up a 
log when it makes its appearance before him, and get 
the most good lumber and most desirable grades pos- 
sible, requires very rapid thought and faithful execu- 
tion. If he is acquainted with the grades and lumber 
inspection, he can save many a dollar in the course of 
a day's work. However, it is not my purpose to pro- 
pound the qualifications of a sawyer here, but as the 
filer and sawyer's work is so closely connected, it 
leads me to make the above remarks. 

We will now proceed with adjusting the guides 
and lining the wheels with the track. The arbor of 
the lower band wheel should be lined exactly parallel 
with the guide rail of the carriage track, the face of 
the top wheel should be lined parallel with the face 
of the lower wheel by the cross-line movement ; use 
the tip-movement of the top wheel (thus throwing it 
out of plum), to train or adjust the saw to the wheels. 
The saw should be put in full motion and adjusted 
properly on the wheels before setting the guides. 
The latter should fit closely to the saw, as the least 
opening gives the saw a chance to dodge if heavily fed. 



CARE OF BAND SAWS. 35 

I would suggest that water be used on the saw ; it 
prevents the guides from wearing, keeps the saw and 
wheels clean (thus preventing the saw from shifting 
on the wheels), and is particularly helpful when saw- 
ing yellow pine and Pacific coast fir. The water 
should be applied to both sides of the saw and to 
each edge above the upper guide by means of hose 
and pipe fixtures. 

Thk End. 







LIST OK USE^RS 



E. P. ALUS BAND SAW MILLS, 



MANUFACTURED BY THE 



EDWARD P. ALUS COMPANY, 

RELIANCE WORKS." MILWAUKEE, WlS. 



N. Weston Humphrey, Ark. 

Cream City Lumber Co , Lambethville, Ark. 

Rock Island Lumber Co Rock Island, 111. 

Weyerhauser & Denkmann . Rock Island, 111. 

Wolverine Lumber Co., (2) Cairo, 111. 

Gem City Saw Mill Co Quincy, 111. 

S. W. Little Bvansville, Ind. 

B. Hershey Lumber Co., (2) Muscatine, la. 

Standard Lumber Co Dubuque, la. 

Lesure Lumber Co Dubuque, la. 

C. W. Robison Dubuque, la. 

Taber & Co., (3) Keokuk, la. 

Knapp, Stout & Co Fort Madison, la. 

G. Wingen & Sons . . . ' North McGregor, la. 



38 LIST OF USERS OF THE 

The Hixon-Rodburn lyumber Co Rodburn, Ky. 

Louisville Saw Mill Co Louisville, Ky. 

Whitecastle Lumber & Shingle Co ..... Whitecastle, La. 

Bradley-Ramsey Lumber Co Lake Charles, La. 

Otis Manufacturing Co New Orleans, La. 

Salmen Bros Slidell, La. 

Geo. L. Burtis Marquette, Mich. 

Hall & Buell So. Manistique, Mich. 

Hall & Buell Bay Mills, Mich. 

Saginaw Lumber & Salt Co., (2) East Saginaw, Mich. 

J. S. Austin & Co . Standish, Mich. 

Cobbs & Mitchell, (2) Cadillac, Mich. 

W. L. & H. D. Churchill, (2) Alpena, Mich. 

E. O. Avery Alpena, Mich. 

Folkerts, McPhee & Co Alpena, Mich. 

The Kirby-Carpenter Co., (4) Menominee, Mich. 

E. Spies . Menominee, Mich. 

The Ludington, Wells & Van Shaick Lumber 

Co., (2) Menominee, Mich. 

Menominee Bay Shore Lumber Co., (2) . . Menominee, Mich. 
John Spry Lumber Co Sault Ste. Marie, Mich. 

E. Y. Williams & Co Bay City, Mich. 

Smith Bros. & Co Bay City, Mich. 

Edmund Hall Bay City, Mich. 

N. B. Bradley & Son Bay City, Mich. 

F. E. Bradley & Co . . Bay City, Mich. 

S. G. M. Gates, (2) West Bay City, Mich. 

James Davidson West Bay City, Mich. 

Green & Braman Portsmouth, Mich. 



K. P. AIvIvIS BAND SAW MIIvIvS. 39 

Metropolitan Ivumber Co., (3) , Metropolitan, Mich. 

T. H. McGraw & Co Naubinway, Mich. 

Chesbrough Bros , . . Emerson, Mich. 

Manistee Salt & Ivumber Co ... Manistee, Mich. 

Widdicomb Furniture Co Grand Rapids, Mich. 

Thos. R. Lyon, Agent Ivudington, Mich. 

A. E. Cartier . Ivudington, Mich. 

Henry Howard & Co Port Huron, Mich. 

N. & B Mills Marysville, Mich. 

Warner & Booth Escanaba, Mich. 

Penoyer Bros Au Sable, Mich. 

Interior Ivumber Co., (3) Interior, Mich. 

Lansing Lumber Co Harrison, Mich. 

C. N. Nelson Lumber Co.,S(2) Cloquet, Minn. 

The Cloquet Lumber Co Cloquet, Minn. 

Hersey & Bean Lumber Co Stillwater, Minn. 

St. Croix Lumber Co Stillwater, Minn. 

Hershey Lumber Co Stillwater, Minn. 

Laird, Norton & Co., (2) Winona, Minn. 

Empire Lumber Co Winona, Minn. 

Youmans Bros. & Hodgins, (2) . Winona, Minn. 

Hall & Shevlin Lumber Co Minneapolis, Minn. 

Northern Mill Co Minneapolis, Minn. 

Briggs Bros Minneapolis, Minn. 

E. W. Backus & Co Minneapolis, Minn. 

Smith, Kilgore & Co Minneapolis, Minn. 

F. Pennington & Co Afton, Minn. 

H. J. Anderson . St. Cloud, Minn. 

R. C. Libbey & Co Hastings, Minn. 



40 LIST OF USERS OF THE 

Enochs Bros Jackson, Miss. 

Norwood & Biitterfield Co., (2) Brookhaven, Miss. 

C. F. Iviebke St. Louis, Mo. 

Hannibal Saw Mill Co Hannibal, Mo. 

Canton Saw Mill Co Canton, Mo. 

Joseph Jackson • • Tonawanda, N. Y. 

Hobson Lumber Co Tuppers Lake, N. Y. 

French Broad Lumber Co Asheville, N. C 

G. B. Hodgeman Mfg Co Sandusky, O. 

Santee River Cypress Lumber Co., (2) . . . . Eutawville, S. C 

Levi Dodge Lumber Co Nashville, Tenn. 

Lutcher & Moore • • • Orange, Texas. 

Geo. T. Comins Lumber Co Beecher, Falls, Vt. 

Pacific Mill Co Tacoma, Wash. 

Robertson & Ward Dayton, Wash. 

Chippewa Lumber & Boom Co., {4) . . . Chippewa, Falls, Wis. 

C. L. Colman, (3) La Crosse, Wis. 

John Paul Lumber Co., (2) La Crosse, Wis. 

La Crosse Lumber Co La Crosse, Wis. 

Sawyer & Austin Lumber Co La Crosse, Wis. 

Jump River Lumber Co Prentice, Wis. 

S. A. Hale Whittlesey, Wis. 

Wheelock, Winchester & Co Whittlesey, Wis. 

R. McMillan & Co., (2) Oshkosh, Wis. 

Coulee Lumber Co Oshkosh, Wis. 

Williamson & Libby Lumber Co Oshkosh, Wis. 

John R. Davies Lumber Co Phillips, Wis. 

Ashland Lumber Co Ashland, Wis. 

W. R. Sutherland Ashland, Wis. 



E. P. AIvIvIS BAND SAW MIIvLS. 41 

Shores I^umber Co Ashland, Wis. 

Yawkey & Lee lyumber Co Hazelhurst, Wis. 

B. F. McMillan & Bro McMillan, Wis. 

John Weeks Lumber Co ........ . Stevens Point, Wis. 

Van Buskirk Bros Van Buskirk, Wis. 

Knox Bros Wausau, Wis. 

Garth Lumber Co Wausau, Wis. 

Glenwood Mfg Co Glenwood, Wis* 

Rust-Gwen Lumber Co Drummond, Wis. 

C. C. Palmer Westboro, Wis. 

Downing Mfg Co ... Downing, Wis. 

North Wisconsin Lumber Co Hayward, Wis. 

White River Lumber Co., (2) Mason, Wis. 

Gerry Lumber Co Eagle River, Wis. 

Eau Claire Lumber Co . . » Eau Claire, Wis. 

The Oconto Co., (2) Oconto, Wis. 

Moore & Gallaway Fon du Lac, Wis. 

B. E. Jones Kelly, Wis. 

Joseph Dessert & Co ..... Mosinee, Wis. 

Northwestern Lumber Co Sterling, Wis. 

Tomahawk Lumber Co Tomahawk, Wis. 

Necedah Lumber Co., (2) Necedah, Wis, 

Geo. Hiles & Son Dexterville, Wis. 

D. A. & C. A. Goodyear Tomah, Wis- 

Willow River Lumber Co New Richmond, Wis. 

J. R. Booth. (5) Ottawa, Ont. 

Keewatin Lumber & Mfg Co Keewatin, Ont. 

Victoria Lumber & Mfg Co . Chemainus, B. C. 

C. Crane & Co. (2) Cincinnati, O. 



42 E. P. Al^IylS BAND SAW MII^I^S. 

John Funke Baraga, Mich. 

Ouellette-Curphey Lumber Co Vicksburg, Miss. 

South Shore Lumber Co Washburn Wis. 

Whitehall Lumber Co Cheboygan, Mich. 

Lutcher & Moore Cyp. Lum. Co . . Lutcher, La. 

Trout Creek Lumber Co. {2) Trout Creek, Mich. 

F. Fisher & Sons New Orleans, La. 

Seaboard Lumber Co . . Shooter's Island, N. Y. Harbor, N. Y. 

B. M. Short Washington, N. C. 

Seaboard Lumber Co Fairford, Ala. 

C. F. Liebke St. Louis, Mo. 

M. Chambers Lakeland, Minn. 

Coal River Lumber Co. (new style) Charleston, N. C. 

J. W. Day & Co Minneapolis. Minn. 

Empire Lumber Co Winona, Minn. 

Swift Bros, (new style) Cheboygan, Mich. 

Peninsular Lum. & Mfg. Co Dollarville, Mich. 

C. C. Barker Bay City, Mich. 

Kern Mfg. Co. (2 new style) West Bay City, Mich. 

Gilkey & Anson Co. (new style) Merrill, Wis. 

Jno. R, Davis Lumber Co. (new style) Phillips, Wis. 

Yawkey & Lee Lumber Co. (new style) . . . Hazelhurst, Wis. 

Albion Lumber Co. (new style) . Albion, Cal. 

I. P. Newton Ashland, Wis. 

McEwen & Murray (new style) New Orleans, La. 

D. A. & C. A. Goodyear Goodyear, Wis. 

Tacoma Mill Co. (new style) Tacoma, Wash. 

Butters & Peters Salt & Lum. Co. (new style) . Ludington, Mich. 



IvIST OK USKR.S 



PRESCOTT BAND SAW MILLS, 



MANUFACTURED BY THE 



MARINETTE IRON WORKS CO. 
Marinette, Wis. West Duluth, Minn. 



No. Name. 


Class. Address. 


I A. W. I^awrence & Co., 




Sturgeon Bay, Wis. 


2 Sawyer & Goodman Co., 




Menekaune, Wis. 


3 Brooks & Ross Lum. Co., 




Schofield, Wis. 


4 North Side lyum. Co., 




Stevens Point, Wis. 


5 Watersmeet L^um. Co., 




Watersmeet, Mich. 


6 Girard Ivum. Co., 




Menominee, Mich. 


7 Girard lyum. Co., 




Menominee, Mich. 


8 Hamilton & Merryman Co., 




Marinette, Wis. 


9 H. Witbeck Co., 




Marinette, Wis. 


lo Ramsey & Jones, 




Menominee, Mich. 


II Van Winkle & Montague, 




Garden, Mich. 


12 Seaton & Butters, 




Ivudington, Mich. 


13 The I. Stephenson Co., 




Kscanaba, Mich. 



44 



lylST OF USERS 



14 The Upham Mfg. Co., 

15 The Upham Mfg. Co., 

16 R. W. Merry man Co., 

17 Marinette Saw Mill Co., 

18 R. W. Merryman Co., 

19 W. J. Young & Co., 

20 W. J. Young & Co., 

21 W. J. Young & Co., 

22 W.J. Young & Co., 

23 W.J. Young & Co., 

24 W. J. Young & Co., 

25 W. J. Young & Co., 

26 Ford River Lumber Co., 

27 Ford River Lumber Co., 

28 Hollister, Jewell & Co., 

29 Sturgeon River Lumber Co. 

30 J. H. Weed, 

31 Rice Lake Lumber Co., 

32 Montreal River Lumber Co. 

33 Montreal River Lumber Co. 

34 The I. Stephenson Co., 

35 L. L. Hotchkiss, 

36 Bosworth & Rielly, 

37 Schulenburg & Boeckeler, 

38 Henry Sherry, 

39 Nashville Lumber Co., 

40 Jas. P. Gould, 

41 C. Lamb & Sons, 

42 C. Lamb & Sons, 



OF THE 

Marshfield, Wis. 
Marshfield, Wis. 
Marinette, Wis. 
Marinette, Wis. 
Marinette, Wis. 
Clinton, Iowa. 
Clinton, Iowa. 
Clinton, Iowa. 
Clinton, Iowa. 
Clinton, Iowa. 
Clinton, Iowa. 
Clinton, Iowa. 
Ford River, Mich. 
Ford River, Mich. 
Sault Ste. Marie, Mich. 
Hancock, Mich. 
Antigo, Wis. 
Rice Lake, Wis. 
Hurley, Wis. 
Hurley, Wis. 
Escanaba, Mich. 
Bay City, Mich. 
Stevens Point, Wis. 
Stillwater, Minn. 
Sherry, Wis. 
Nashville, Tenn. 
Oshkosh, Wis. 
Clinton, Iowa. 
Clinton, Iowa. 



PRE^COTT BAND SAW Mllyl^S. 



45 



43 Barronette Ivumber Co., 




Barronette, Wis. 


44 Stephenson Manf g Co., 




Marinette, Wis. 


45 H. W. Wright I^umber Co., 




Merrill, Wis. 


46 Ivangford & Hall Lum. Co., 




Fulton, 111. 


47 C. K. Bddy & Son, 




East Saginaw, Mich. 


48 C. K. Eddy & Son, 




East Saginaw, Mich. 


49 W. H. Houlton, 




Elk River, Minn. 


50 Penn. Joint ly. & Iv. Co., 




Williamsport, Pa. 


51 Penn. Joint Iv. & L. Co., 




Williamsport, Pa. 


52 W. J. Young & Co., 




Clinton, Iowa. 


53 Henry Sherry, 




Aniwa, Wis. 


54 Wis. Valley Lum. Co., 




Harrison, Wis. 


55 Wis. Valley Lum. Co., 




Harrison, Wis. 


56 Chicago Lumber Co., 




Ironton, Ohio. 


57 Chicago Ivumber Co., 




Ironton, Ohio. 


58 St. Paul & Tacoma Lum. Co. 


) 5 


Tacoma, Wash. 


59 St. Paul & Tacoma Lum. Co. 




Tacoma, Wash. 


60 J. S. Stearns, 




Stearns, Mich. 


61 D. J. Spaulding, 




Withee, Wis. 


62 Bowman, Forseman & Co., 




Williamsport, Pa. 


63 Prairie River Lumber Co., 




Parish, Wis. 


64 Prairie River Lumber Co., 




Parish, Wis. 


65 Murphy Lumber Co., 




Green Bay, Wis. 


66 Murphy Lumber Co., 




Green Bay, Wis. 


67 Spalding Lumber Co., 




Cedar River, Mich. 


68 Prewett, Spurr & Co., 




Nashville, Tenn. 


69 Tennessee Lumber Co., 




Cincinnati, Ohio. 


70 Marinette Saw Mill Co., 




Marinette, Wis. 


71 F. W. Ayer & Co., 




Bangor, Maine. 



46 LIST OF USKRS OF THE 

72 Menominee River Lum. Co., 3 Menekaune, Wis. 



73 Schroth & Ahrens, 


I 


Winona, Minn. 


74 Brookings Lumber Co., 


2 


West Troy Junct., Wis, 


75 Lyons Lumber Co., 


I 


Lyons, Iowa. 


76 Lyons Lumber Co., 


I 


Lyons, Iowa. 


77 David Joyce, 


2 


Lyons, Iowa. 


78 David Joyce, 


2 


Lyons, Iowa. 


79 Bowman Lumber Co., 


2 


St. Albans, W. Va. 


80 Hudson Lumber Co., 


2 


Hudson, Wis. 


81 Hudson Lumber Co., 


2 


Hudson, Wis. 


82 Holt Lumber Co., 


3 


Oconto, Wis. 


83 Wineman Bros. 


3 


Tipton, Tenn. 


84 H. Witbeck Co., 


3 


Marinette, Wis. 


85 Smith & Richardson, 


2 


Minneapolis, Minn. 


86 Northern Mill Co., 


3 


Minneapolis, Minn. 


87 Eddy, Avery & Eddy, 


3 


Bay City, Mich. 


88 John Welch, 


3 


West Bay City, Mich. 


89 Dow & Brown, 


I 


Madison, Ind. 


90 Laing Lumber Co., 


I 


Sagola, Mich. 


91 Anson Eldred & Son, 


3 


Fort Howard, Wis. 


92 Anson Eldred & Son, 


3 


Fort Howard, Wis. 


93 Hovey & McCracken, 


2 


Muskegon, Mich. 


94 Schulenberg & Boeckler, 


3 


St. Louis, Mo. 


95 Davis & Starr Lum. Co., 


3 


Little Black, Wis. 


96 Davis & Starr Lum. Co., 


3 


Little Black, Wis. 


97 High Bridge Lum. Co., 


3 


High Bridge, Ky., 


98 Kentucky Union Land Co., 


3 


Clay City, Ky. 


99 Newman & Spanner, 


3 


Ironton, Ohio. 


100 Newman & Spanner, 


3 


Ironton, Ohio. 



PRKSCOTT BAND SAW MII^IvS. 



47 



loi Metropolitan Lum. Co., 

102 Hulings Ivum. Co., 

103 Collins, Darrah & Co., 

104 Bartlett, I^and & lyum. Co., 

105 Casper Ivum, Co., 

106 Casper Ivum. Co., 

107 W. T. Pearson, 

108 Robinson Salt & lyum. Co., 

109 Frank Dudley, 

no B. C. Bowman & Co., 

112 Berlin Mills Co., 

113 Henry Sherry, 

114 A. J. Asher, 

115 Henry Sherry, 

116 Henry Sherry, 

117 Winslow lyum. Co., 

118 Connecticut River Lum. Co., 

119 Connecticut River Lum. Co., 

120 Andre Cushing & Co.. 

121 Lawrence, Phillips & Co., 

122 Western Lum. Co., 

123 Ohio Falls Car Co., 

1 24 Lahey Brothers, 

125 Wm. T. Pearson, 

126 Cleveland Saw Mill & L. Co., 

127 Cleveland Saw Mill & L. Co., 

128 Stetson, Cutler & Co., 

129 Murphy Lum. Co., 



3 Metropolitan, Mich. 

3 Hendricks, W. Va. 

2 Tionesta, Pa. 

I Bartlett, N. H. 

5 Casper, Cal. 

4 Casper, Cal. 
I Bangor, Me. 

3 Bay City, Mich. 

I Lake Migantic, P. Q. 

I Williamsport, Pa. 

T Portland, Me. 

3 Park Falls, Wis. 

4 Pineville, Ky. 

3 Weed Lake, Wis. 

3 Neenah, Wis. 

3 Winslow, Me. 

I Holyoke, Mass. 

1 Holyoke, Mass. 

2 St. John, N. B. 

1 Shawmut, Me. 

2 Groveton, N. H. 

3 Jeifersonville, Ind. 

3 S. Brisbane, Queensland, 

Australia. 

2 Bangor, Me. 

I Marquette, Mich. 

1 Marquette, Mich. 

2 St. John, N. B. 

2 Green Bay, Wis. 



48 



LIST OF USERS OF THE 



130 F. W. Ayer & Co., 


3 


Bangor, Me. 


131 F. W. Ayer & Co., 


3 


Bangor, Me. 


132 Berlin Mills Co., 


2 


Portland, Me. 


133 Berlin Mills Co., 


2 


Portland, Me. 


134 Berlin Mills Co., 


2 


Portland, Me. 


135 The Geise Lum. Co., 


3 


Higginsport, Ohio. 


136 G. M. Soule, 


2 


Groveton, N. H. 


137 The Bradstreet Lum. Co., 


2 


South Gardiner, Maine. 


138 Davis & Sargent, 


2 


Lowell, Mass. 


139 Dollar Bay Land & Impr. Co, 


,, 2 


Dollar Bay, Mich. 


140 Connecticut River Lum. Co., 


3 


Mt. Tom, Mass. 


141 Connecticut River Lum. Co., 


3 


Mt. Tom, Mass. 


142 Eddy Bros. & Co., 


3 


Bay City, Mich. 


143 Crandon Lumber Co., 


3 


North Crandon, Wis. 


144 Schulenburg & Boeckeler, 


3 


Stillwater, Minn. 


145 Stephen A. Nye, 


2 


Fairfield, Me. 


146 Louisiana Cypress Lum. Co., 


4 


New Orleans, La. 


147 Flanigan, Brosman & Co., 


5 


Eureka, Cal. 


148 Shell Lake Lum. Co., 


2 


Shell Lake, Wis. 


149 Cummings & BufFum, 


3 


Dillsboro, N. C. 


150 Smalleys & Co., 


3 


Bay City, Mich. 


151 Perley & Pattee, 


2 


Ottawa, Ontario. 


152 J. Manchester Haynes, 


2 


Wiscosset, Me. 


153 Frank Dudley, 


2 


Lake Migantic, P. Q. 


154 W. R. Durfee, 


2 


Ashland Wis. 


155 Berlin Mills Co., 


2 


Berlin Mills, N. H. 


156 Altamaha Cypress Lum. Co., 


3 


Brunswick, Ga. 


157 L. E. White, 


5 


San Francisco, Cal. 


158 Moore & Smith Lum. Co., 


5 


San Francisco, Cal. 



PRKSCOTT BAND SAW MII.T,S 

159 Chas. Hebard & Son, 

160 Chas. Hebard & Son, 

161 Pharr & Williams, 

162 Cleveland Saw Mill & h. Co., 

163 Cleveland Saw Mill & h. Co., 

164 Studebaker & Von Behren Co. 

165 F. W. Ayer, 

166 Henry Sherry, 

167 Redington Ivum. Co., 

168 North Western Lum. Co., 

169 Puget Mill Co., 

170 Menasha Wooden Ware Co., 

171 W. B. Norris, 

172 Metropolitan I/um. Co., 

173 Metropolitan Lum. Co., 

174 Southern Lum. Co., 

175 lyittle Kanawha Lum. Co., 

176 Little Kanawha Lum. Co., 

177 Camp Manufacturing Co., 

178 Camp Manufacturing Co., 

179 Berlin Mills Co., 

180 Janson Springer & Co., 

181 McMurray Cedar Lum. Co., 

182 W. H. Knox, 

183 W. H. Knox, 

184 LeKies & Collins, 

185 LeKies & Collins, 

186 Stimson Lum. Co., 



49 



3 


Pequaming, Mich. 


3 


Pequaming, Mich. 


4 


Patterson, La. 


2 


Marquette, Mich. 


2 


Marquette, Mich. 


,1 


Marion, Ind. 





Bangor, Me. 





Neenah, Wis. 


2 


Phillips, Me. 


3 


Bau Claire, Wis. 


4 


Seattle, Wash. 


2 


Menasha, Wis. 


3 


West Lake, La. 


4 


Beechwood, Mich. 


4 


Beechwood, Mich. 


2 


Suffolk, Va. 


3 


Portsmouth, Ohio. 


3 


Portsmouth, Ohio. 


3 


Franklin, Va. 


3 


Franklin, Va. 


2 


Berlin Falls, N. H. 


4 


San Francisco, Cal. 


4 


McMurray, Skagit Co. 




Wash. 


3 


Ogema, Wis. 


3 


Ogema, Wis. 


3 


Norfolk, Va. 


3 


Norfolk, Va. 


3 


New Berne. N. C. 



50 

i87 R. D. Pike, 

i88 I. Stephenson Co., 

189 I. Stephenson Co., 

190 N. Holland, 

191 N. Holland, 

192 The Standard Dry Kiln 

Ivum. Co., 

193 Samuel Blair & Co., 

194 W. S. Weed & Co., 

195 W. H. H. Smith & Co., 

196 W. H.H.Smith & Co., 

197 J- J- Fleetwood, 

198 East Jordan Lum. Co., 

199 Bast Jordan Lum. Co., 

200 Atlantic Saw Mill Co., 

201 H. Witbeck Co., 

202 Payton, Kimball & Barber, 

203 Thos. Nester Estate, 

204 Diamond Match Co., 

205 Diamond Match Co., 

206 John Edwards, Manf g Co. 

207 H. J. Anderson, 

208 Mitchell & Mc Clure, 

209 Mitchell Bros. & Murphy, 

210 Burns Bros. & Huffman, 

211 J. K. Russell Co., 



LIST OF USERS OF THE 



3 Bayfield, Wis. 

2 Escanaba, Mich. 

2 Escanaba, Mich. 

3 East Saginaw, Mich. 
3 East Saginaw, Mich. 

3 Norfolk, Va. 

5 San Francisco, Cal. 

2 Glen Hazel, Elk Co., 

3 Toledo, Ohio. 
3 Toledo, Ohio. 

1 Hertford, N. C. 

3 East Jordan, Mich. 

3 East Jordan, Mich. 

3 Norfolk, Va. 

3 Marinette, Wis. 

3 West Superior, Wis. 

3 Baraga, Mich. 

3 Ontonagon, Mich. 

3 Ontonagon, Mich. 

3 Port Edwards, Wis. 

3 St. Cloud, Minn. 

3 West Duluth, Minn. 

3 Jennings, Mich. 

3 Elizabeth, W. Va. 

2 Sault St. Marie, Mich, 
o Sault St. Marie, Mich. 



Pa. 



212 J. K. Russell Co., 

213 The lyindsey Cochran Mfg Co 3 St. Albans, W. Va, 

214 Davis & Mason, 3 Gladstone, Mich. 



pr;escott band 

215 The Tunis Ivum. Co., 

216 Sisson & Ivilley Ivum. Co., 

217 Danaher & Melendy, 

218 Paine lyum. Co , 

219 Lock & Stevens, 

220 Temple Emery, 

221 John G. Owen, 

222 John D. Arpin, 

223 John D. Arpin, 

224 Parkersburg Mill Co., 

225 H. S. Southard, 

226 B. B. Richards, 

227 Point Mountain Lum. Co., 

228 N. N. Dummer, 

229 H. J. Austin, 

230 T. C Wainman, 

231 A. H. Rennebaum, 

232 Collins & Watson, 

233 Black Warrior lyum, Co., 

234 Merrill & Ring, 

235 Iveach Ivum. Co., 

236 W. W. Cummer, 

237 Geo. A. Pratt, 

238 Cutler & Savidge, 

239 Mitchell Bros. & Murphy, 

240 Ford River Lum, Co., 

241 Ford River Lum. Co., 

242 Port Blakely Mill Co., 

243 R. D. Pike, 



SAW MII.I.S. 51 

3 Norfolk, Va. 

3 Lilley, Mich. 

4 San Bernardino, Cal. 
2 Oshkosh, Wis. 

East Tawas, Mich. 

2 East Tawas, Mich. 

3 Owendale, Mich. 

3 Grand Rapids, Wis. 

2 Grand Rapids, Wis. 

3 Parkersburg, W. Va. 
3 Suffolk, Va. 

3 New Duluth, Minn. 

2 Point Mountain, W. Va. 

1 Rowley, Mass. 

2 Tiaghaton, Pa. 

2 Eldred, Pa. 

4 Middlesborough, Ky. 

3 Tionesna, Pa. 

3 Demopolis, Ala. 

2 West Duluth, Minn. 

5 Marysville, Cal. 
2 Cadillac, Mich. 

4 Marysville, Cal. 

2 Le Roy Mich. 

3 Jennings, Mich. 

3 Ford River, Mich. 

3 Ford River, Mich. 

2 Port Blakely, Wash. 

3 Bayfield, Wis. 



52 IvIST OF 1 


USE] 


RS. 


244 R. D. Pike, 


2 


Bayfield, Wis. 


245 Pope & Talbot, 


2 


Port Blakely, Wash. 


246 Davis Bros., 


3 


Matchwood, Mich. 


247 Thomp. Smith's Sons 


2 


Cheboygan, Mich. 


248 Hubbard and Vincent, 


2 


Duluth, Minn. 


249 H. M. Land & Son, 


2 


Au Sable, Mich. 


250 H. M. Land & Son, 


2 


Au Sable, Mich. 


251 Lawrence, Newhall & Co., 


2 


Shawmut, Me. 


252 D. B. Stevens & Son, 


2 


Rhinelander, Wis. 


253 Brown, Clark & Howe, 


2 


Williamsport, Pa. 


254 J. L. Littlefield, 


2 


Farwell, Mich. 


255 PortBlakely Mills Co., 


2 


Port Blakely, Wash. 


256 Brownlee Lum. Co. 


2 


Detroit, Mich. 


257 Burns Lum. Co., 


3 


Sattes, W. Va. 


258 Cummer & Diggins, 


3 


Cadillac, Mich. 






